Can you cope crown molding

I mean, from just looking at the miter, not the joint. At presentations and carpentry clinics, I call this a shell game: can you spot the correct cut? Here we have three miter cuts all done at 45 degrees. To find out which cut is correct we need to measure each piece. Remember to think of the ceiling projection as the thickness of the crown if it were solid. But there are two problems with that approach.

Focus only on the fence! The second problem with that old-fashioned approach is the pencil line. Further, when I have to cut on the flat, I often have to use a crown chart or an angle finder, like the Bosch angle finder that provides miter and bevel settings for crown molding with any spring angle. For those reasons, I cut on the flat only when the crown is too large to cut in position. Plus, who wants to set miter and bevel angles to a tenth of a degree.

I like to use a crown stop for all my cuts, both for copes and outside miters. One setup covers everything. And I use a crown holder, too. Like many finish carpenters, Gary Katz prefers to use a crown holder—a lesson he learned from David Collins , which works just fine for the majority of jobs. Bill Shaw studied mechanical engineering and spent a year in the corporate world before deciding it was not for him. During the next ten years Bill started and co-owned an auto repair shop and then worked as a cabinetmaker.

The cabinet shop manufactured flooring on cabinet-making equipment, which seemed very inefficient. Thinking there was a better way, Bill opened his own business, with a leased Weinig moulder, knife grinder, and a used straight-line rip saw.

The next 20 years were spent manufacturing custom moulding. While delivering the moulding to the job sites, Bill would check in with the customers asking if there was anything else he could do. When not producing Version 2 of the Copemaster, Bill can be found with the love of his life—his wife Loure, and in the machine shop, wood shop, or out on his dirt bike a year passion, which started at age Works for me. Could be the video is only outputting on one channel, either the left or right and you are not out putting that side.

Just happened to me where I only had one speaker working. Even though I am retired after over 40 years in the construction business, I always learn something new and helpful by your carpentry videos.

Have met you several times during your treks to Philadelphia. Always interesting, always great useful information. Keep up the good work. Great article , I would love to try a copemaster. I would add that I prefer cutting on the flat. It is the most accurate method that I have found to consistently cut large quantities of crown , providing one keeps sharp blades.

The only time I , or my crew prefers to bed is when cutting a lot of small pieces for mantels or such or , running vaults. Cutting on the flat with a sharp blade may seem efficient and precise, but if the crown has even a small cup on the back, it will throw off your compound miter in wacky ways.

But, as I like to say: If it works for you….! As I stated in my comment , cutting on the flat Is our preference on large quantities of long Wide profiles , however cutting nested is definitely not twice as fast , I do agree with the mating stain grade corners.

As for the crown being cupped , you are correct , however Cutting nested is not perfect either , you will still get an inaccurate cut in the center where the cup is located. Jeremy Saw manufacturers make both types of saws for a reason.

We all have preferences. Go slowly and carefully, and try to follow the curves of the molding as you go. Molding that has been coped looks completely normal from the front, but it has a 1 in 2.

Sand the edges of the cut before installing. Use grit sandpaper to gently smooth down the edges of the cut you just made. Question 5. Yes you can, although it takes some precision. Hold your angle grinder in one hand and keep the molding steady with the other. Take off about 1 in 2. Question 6. Install the square cut or miter cut molding first.

Use a nail gun to attach the molding to the wall, spacing your nails about 6 in 15 cm apart. Then, double check that your coped piece fits snugly against the piece you just installed.

Butt the coped molding up against the square-cut molding. Gently push the coped molding up against the square cut or miter cut you already installed. Use your nail gun again to attach the molding to the wall, spacing them about 6 in 15 cm apart. Question 7. Use a latex caulk. Smooth it out with your fingers, then wait for it to dry. If there are any lumps or bumps, use sandpaper to grind them down and make everything flush. Try using caulk as a last resort. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.

By using this service, some information may be shared with YouTube. Cut practice copes on a scrap piece of molding first to help eliminate mistakes and the need to fix them. Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0. Use a fine blade in your coping saw to reduce the need for filing or sanding. Submit a Tip All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published. Related wikiHows How to. How to. More References 1.

Make a 45 degree inside cut with a miter saw or miter box. Using a coping saw, cut along the line that separates the face of the crown molding and the 45 degree cut face. While making the cut, angle the coping saw towards the back of the crown mold to remove any wood that might be in the way of the coped joint. In the diagram below, compare the 45 degree miter cut top , to the coped miter cut bottom. Once the miter cut has been coped, the coped section should fit tightly against the first piece of molding.

Before nailing either piece, hold them in place, up against the wall and ceiling, shifting them around, until both pieces fit perfectly together. Hold the 90 degree piece in place and nail it. Then hold the coped piece up tight against the first piece and nail it. When you look at the finished joint, it should look just like it would have if you had cut a 45 degree angle on both pieces. If you are painting the room where you are planning to install crown mold, paint the room first.

If the ceiling and the walls will be two different colors, you don't have to be too precise when cutting in the edge of the ceiling with a paint brush. The crown mold will cover it up. You can also paint the crown mold before you install it, then nail it in place, set the nails, putty the nail-holes, and perform any necessary touch-up afterwards. If you have any questions about how to install crown molding, please Contact Us.

Just a quick thought about miter saws.